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Central Newsmagazine is Central St. Louis County's
exclusive direct-mailed community newspaper. |
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Dining Spotlight |
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Simon’s Café Is Lebanese LegacyBy Sheila Frayne Rhoades
 For those who are wondering -- and there are many who are -- Salim Hanna, “The King of Garlic,” is alive, well and serving traditional Lebanese cuisine in Chesterfield. “People are surprised to see me here and ask where I’ve been,” said Hanna, owner of Simon’s Lebanese Café in Chesterfield. More than 30 years of culinary experience precede Hanna’s newest venture. The owner emigrated from Lebanon in 1969 and five years later refurbished the landmark Pelican restaurant on South Grand, where he introduced St. Louis to Lebanese food. That first “Saleem’s” was followed in 1988 by Saleem’s in the University City Loop. Hanna soon became known as “The King of Garlic,” because he used garlic in many innovative ways. He sold the University City restaurant, and in 2004, opened Simon’s Café in Chesterfield for his son, a young man who aspires to be the next generation’s family restaurateur.
“Simon loves the business and eventually this will be his own restaurant,” Hanna said. Indeed, the impressive, 16-year-old sophomore at Christian Brothers College High School (CBC) already is quite knowledgeable. “I hope to be attending CIA -- the Culinary Institute of America -- after my graduation,” Simon Hanna said. For now, he spends his evenings cheerfully serving and carefully explaining each and every dish to dinner guests at his namesake restaurant. Simon’s Café visitors are greeted warmly and seated in the dining room, where 18 tables are set amid the subtle Middle Eastern/ Mediterranean decor. Palm trees festoon marbled wallpaper, beautiful Arabian scenes line the walls, and a wonderful trompe l’oeil mural depicts a balcony scene overlooking the sea. Soothing music plays softly in the background, and aromatic garlic and exotic spices scent the air, setting the stage for the feast to come. “Lebanese food is the best of Middle Eastern cuisine,” Hanna explained. “It’s a natural mixture of French, Turkish, Greek and Egyptian, since Lebanon had once been occupied by all of these countries.” The menu opens with a tantalizing array of zesty appetizers and salads, including hummus; baba ganouji (roasted eggplant dip); falafel (crisp and spicy ground chick pea patties); and tabouli, a healthful Lebanese salad served with fried and soft pita bread for dipping. Entrees include large portions of Lebanese specialties: kabobs of beef tenderloin and chicken with lemon and garlic marinade, and lamb and seafood dishes with sides of potatoes, rice or vegetable. There are steaks and a lighter menu featuring single skewers of meat, and a vegetarian menu satisfies vegans as well. An international wine list is featured; a full bar serves all other libations. Baklava and ice cream are house desserts. Like Hanna’s former restaurants, Simon’s Café keeps guests coming back. Simon, “The Prince of Garlic,” looks forward to continuing what his father began.
Simon's Cafe
Location: 79 Forum Center (Olive Boulevard and Woods Mill Road)
Telephone: (314) 469-2210
Hours: 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 5p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday Closed Sundays but may be available for private parties.
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